Maintenant que tu sais de quelle matière est constitué ton tissu, (quoi?! Comment ça tu ne sais pas ?! Vite ! Vite ! Rattrape ton retard ici ! ), je vais essayer de t’expliquer la différence entre un satin, un denim, une gabardine, un taffetas etc
J’espère que tu as un peu de temps devant toi, car je pense que çà va être le plus loooooong article que je n’ai jamais rédigé. Alors installe-toi bien dans ton canapé, choisi un bon coussin pour soutenir tes reins, et prévoit peut être de quoi boire et manger. Tu es bien installé(e)? C’est parti pour la belle histoire du tissage !
Père Castor, raconte-nous une histoire, Père castor !
(oups désolée, j’avais cette chanson en tête…).
Il était une fois…
La technique de tissage n’a pas changé depuis l’Antiquité ! Mais oui, pourquoi changerait-on une équipe qui gagne ? On l’a juste amélioré, mécanisé, automatisé (et j’ai pas d’autres rimes en « é »). Mais le principe reste le même : on entrecroise perpendiculairement des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame.
- Les fils de chaîne sont enroulés sur un gros tambour, qu’on appelle l’ensouple.
- Les fils de chaîne sont croisés, afin d’éviter qu’ils ne s’emmêlent
- Les fils de chaîne passent dans des lisses (les petits trous) qui sont fixés sur des lames qui montent et qui descendent suivant un schéma bien particulier (que je ne développerais pas ici)
- Les fils de trame passent un à un dans l’espace généré par les lames qui se baissent et s’élèvent. Cet espace, on l’appelle la foule
- Le peigne, en oscillant, vient coller la trame contre le tissu formé
- On observe la formation du tissu
- Le tissu est enroulé au fur et à mesure.
Les fils de chaîne sont donc plus tendus que les fils de trame, puisqu’ils sont en permanence sous tension lors du tissage. C’est d’ailleurs pour cela qu’on recommande toujours de couper les pièces en respectant le droit fil ! Maintenant tu sais pourquoi : c’est le sens où ton tissu est le plus résistant ! De plus, les fils de trame n’étant pas aussi tendus lors du tissage, ton tissu sera légèrement « extensible » (j’ai dit légèrement hein !) dans le sens de la trame.
Les fils qui sont enroulés sur l’ensouple ne sont pas disposés au hasard ! Tout comme le mouvement des lames, l’enfilage dans les lisses et le passage de la navette (avec les fils de trame, tu te rappelles ?), tout est magnifiquement calculé. Il faut que tout ça respecte l’armure. L’armure ? J’ai loupé le passage des chevaliers et de la table ronde je crois…
Une.. armure ?!
Alors non, l’armure n’a rien à voir avec un quelconque chevalier. L’armure, c’est la séquence d’entrecroisement des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame, tout simplement. Et ça ressemble à quelque chose comme… ça !
Je suis sur que tu as pensé que c’était une grille de mots croisés, avoue….
Plus sérieusement, il existe trois types d’armures
- l’armure toile ou taffetas
- l’armure satin
- l’armure sergé
De ces 3 armures, dérivent touuuuuutes les autres (et il y en a un paquet ! Mais je ne vais pas toutes te les présenter, d’ailleurs je n’ai pas la prétention de toutes les connaître…)
Comme je te l’ai dit plus haut, le tissage est un entrecroisement de fils de chaîne et de fils de trame. Dans le domaine du tissage, on appèle les fils de chaîne : les fils, et les fils de trame : les duites. ça va ? t’es encore là ?
Si tu as bien compris le principe du tissage, les fils sont donc dans la longueur tandis que les duites sont dans la largeur du tissu.
Je vais devoir t’expliquer deux trois termes techniques… Sinon, tu ne vas pas comprendre les 3 types d’armures. Je m’excuse pour le côté un peu scolaire, mais j’ai essayé de faire des jolis dessins pour me faire pardonner !
Le rapport d’armure, c’est la plus petite unité de répétition en nombre de duites x nombre de fils.
Si sur le rapport d’armure il y a plus de carré blanc, c’est à dire qu’il y a plus de « laissé » que de « pris », alors on parle d’un tissu à effet trame. Mais si il y a plus de « pris » que de « laissé », c’est à dire plus de carrés noirs, alors on parle de tissu à effet chaîne.
Le décochement correspond au décalage du point d’accroche, là où s’effectue le liage entre la chaîne et la trame. Sur un tissu a effet chaîne, c’est le carré banc. Sur un tissu a effet trame, c’est le carré noir ! Tu vois, c’est facile 😉
Tu comprends pourquoi il y a autant d’armure possible ! Satin de 5 à effet trame… Sergé de 3 à effet chaîne etc. Et encore, là je ne te présente que des armures carrés (= autant de fils de chaîne que de fils de trame) ! Parce que si on rajoute les irrégulières, on n’en verrai pas la fin de cet article…. D’ailleurs… Tu es toujours là ? Ok je continue alors !
L’armure toile et le taffetas
La toile (comme le taffetas) est une armure dans laquelle les fils impairs et pairs alternent à chaque coup, au-dessus et au-dessous de la trame. C’est la plus simple et la plus ancienne des armures et la plus solide. Les tissus obtenus n’ont ni envers ni endroit. L’armure donne un aspect grenu au tissu.
La toile et le taffetas ont la même structure mais sont constitués de matières distinctes. Le terme de toile est utilisé pour des étoffes à base de fibres discontinues comme le coton, la laine, le lin… Tandis que le terme taffetas est réservé aux étoffes à base de fibres continues comme la soie ainsi que les fibres artificielles et synthétiques.
La toile a un rapport d’armure de 2 (2 fils x 2 fils duites), et un décochement de 1 (c’est toujours le cas pour une armure toile).
Il y a autant de pris que de laissés, donc on ne parle ni d’effet chaîne ni d’effet trame.
L’armure sergé
Le sergé est une armure caractérisée par des côtes obliques sur l’endroit, générées par le déplacement des liages de la valeur d’un fil à chaque passage de trame. Le fil de trame passe sous un fil, puis sur plusieurs autres fils de chaîne en décalant d’un fil à chaque passage.
Le sergé a un rapport d’armure au minimum de 3 (3 fils de chaîne x 3 fils de trame), et toujours un décochement de 1.
En fonction du nombre de fils de chaînes chevauchés, et de l’alternance des couleurs des fils de chaîne sur l’ensouple, on obtient des motifs différents comme les chevrons ou les pieds de poule.
Les sergés les plus communs sont : le denim, le tweed, le twill, les chevrons, les pieds de poule, les pieds de coqs (ils sont plus grands que les pieds de poule), la gabardine, le whipcord.
L’armure satin
Le satin est une armure dont les liages (points de croisement entre chaîne et trame) sont répartis de manière à se dissimuler pour présenter une surface lisse et souvent brillante à l’endroit et mate à l’envers. Elle est constituée de flottés de chaîne pour le satin chaîne ou de flottés de trame pour le satin trame. Le flotté, c’est une portion d’un fil qui s’allonge par-dessus deux ou plusieurs duites pour former certains motifs.
Le satin est une armure fragile car il est plus facile de faire des accrocs à cause des longs flottés.
Le satin a un rapport d’armure au minimum de 5 (5 fils de chaîne x 5 fils de trame), et un décochement minimum de 2.
On utilise l’armure satin pour tisser la soie, mais on trouve également des satins de polyester, au prix beaucoup plus abordable. Le satin est un tissu qui a tendance à glisser : on dit que c’est un tissu vivant, ce qui le rend complexe à travailler.
Dans la famille des satins, on retrouve : la crêpe de satin (=surface non lisse), le damassé (=motifs carrés ou à fleurs), la duvetine, le satin duchesse (=doux et épais), le satin liberty (=gratté sur l’envers), le satin satiné etc.
Pour résumer…
Si on a un côté brillant et un côté mat : on a un satin !
Si on a de côtes obliques sur une seule face : on a un sergé !
Si on a un envers similaire à l’endroit, avec une alternance régulière des fils : on a une toile !
Et si on n’a aucun des 3 critères….. malheureusement c’est une armure irrégulière…
Voilà, j’arrive au terme de mon histoire ! J’espère que tu as pris plaisir à lire mon article (et que ce n’était pas trop barbant…). Si tu veux en savoir plus, et surtout découvrir les armures irrégulières, tu peux cliquer ici
Maintenant, les tissus n’ont presque plus de secrets pour toi !!! Je dis presque, car il reste une dernière catégorie… À ton avis c’est laquelle ??
Si vous appréciez mon travail, sachez qu'il est possible de me soutenir via un système de pourboire, occasionnel ou récurrent via la plateforme Utip
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Oh merci aussi pour cet article oh combien intéressant. Les schémas aident bien à la compréhension. Moi j’aimerais bien un article sur les tissus mailles comme les jerseys
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Le damassé peut il être consituté de coton (je pense aux serviette de table…) ?
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